A PRIMER ON NATURAL DYEING

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Dyed

- when the color is held fast.

Stained

- when color is not held fast.

Wild plants and berries provide a rich variety of bright colors for cloth. Most dyes require the use of a "mordant" to fix the color permanently. Mordents make the dye bite harder, binding the dye into the fibers. Fabrics all react differently to dyes - ones that work on wool may not work on cottons. Mordants may change the shade of the color produced however. The most common mordents are alum, cream of tartar, ferrous sulfate (iron) and tin potash. Aluminum tends to brighten a dye and iron darkens it, but both fix the color. Iron has been known to darken yellow dyes to almost green, so this is where an aluminum is a better choice. A mordant is always added before dyeing the fabric. More specifically these are metal salts and they cause a chemical reaction to the fabric. Some crude native alum’s can be found in wood ash and sediment of bog pools.

The main way to dye using barks is by having the dyestuff immersed in cold water then brought to a boil, so the color can be released (this can be a few hours for certain tree barks). Leave the liquid to cool, then the fabric is put in and brought back to a boil, then simmered. Squeeze the fiber out and the dry.

 

SOME RECIPES

1 - Black - bogpool sediments, yellow flag, elder bark.

2- Brown - lichen, seaweed, peat soot, water lily, onion skins.

3 - Blue - blackberries (use alum and salt), sloes, bilberries.

4 - Red - madder.

5 -Yellow - heather, bracken, dock, autumn crocus.

6 - Yellow/Green - elder leaves (plus alum).

SOURCES

 

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Blue - Indigo - obtained from the indigo plant, woad - a herb similar to indigo and long lasting, Mohan berries, Meadowsweet flowers.

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Red - Lichen, Bloodroot, Madder, Geranium flowers, Hemlock Bark.

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Green - Fells plant, Bracken, A variety of leaves from Privet, Lily of the Valley, Nettle and Weld, Horsetail.

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Yellow - Barberry, Broom Flower, Ragwort, Weld, St Johnswort, Onions, Lichen, Black Oak Bark, Saffron, Mulberry (from the wood), Morin, Crocus Flowers.

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Brown - Hickory, Walnuts, Grey Lichen, Wood Chips, Madder, Black Walnut Hulls.

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Purple - sea Snails, Tyrian, Madder.

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Orange - Shellfish, Lady’s Bedstraw, Madder, Onions.

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Black & Grey - Ashes, Alder Bark, Blackberries, Buckhorn Berries, Yellow Flag Iris Roots.

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Berries of all kinds create various shades of reds, oranges and yellows.

Three important terms -

* Diffusion

- spreading the solution through the fibers.

* Affinity

- holds the dye to fiber - color fast in liquid.or sunlight. Fastness in washing is more important for work clothes than furniture covering or wall hangings.

* Fast

- not easily removed dye - either washing or in sunlight. Fabrics are dyed being immersed in a liquid solution called dye liquor, or dye bath. Cotton and wool can be dyed as raw fibers, spun yarn or woven cloth.

 

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